Now is the Winter of Our…Content!

Beer 101 Series:

By Matt Simpson, The Beer Sommelier ®

“Oh yeah, I like beer. But I don’t like those dark beers…dark beers are so heavy!” Uh, yeah, right. We’ve all heard this before, from folks who think they know about beer. The truth is, a dark beer only uses more roasted malts to darken the finished product.

You know that perennial “big beer” fan-favorite, Guinness? Well, it’s actually one of the lighter beers made, at about 170 calories and just 6 or so grams of carbohydrates per pint. It’s not called a “session” beer for nothing. In reality, it’s meant to be drunk, pint after pint, in a long session of chat, story telling and song. Well, maybe not so much song these days. But you get the idea.

My point…? My point is that during this season…the cold months…we’re availed to all the really big beers. The beers with body, flavor, depth and higher alcohol. And guess what? They’re not all dark and roasty (though many of them are!) And for those who don’t love big, flavorful beers, these were never made for them to begin with, just as Ports, Sherries and Brandies aren’t either. And this certainly isn’t the beer season for them.

This is the season for sitting by that fire, on a cold weekend night, sipping a brew that gets more flavorful and complex as it warms in the glass. While these beers are generally more expensive because of all the extra ingredients needed to make them, they’re worth every penny. These are the beers that satisfy.

And these beers are usually ales, meaning they have all the fruitiness, hop bitterness, flavor, aroma and depth of character that long months of lagering (cold conditioning) often take away from a beer. Take Belgian Triples, for example. They’re often golden in color, but rich and full bodied. And they’ve got a wonderful breadiness and citrus presence that pairs remarkably well with many cheeses.

But to be somewhat hypocritical, many of this season’s beers are darker, more complex and hearty. I really just wanted to make a point. Oh…and while I never suggest smoking while sampling complex beers (it tends to overpower the beer and coat the entire palate), but if any will actually stand up to a full-bodied cigar, it would be these. Some great examples:

Belgian Quadruple (Quad) – Also known as Belgian Strong Ales, these are the biggest, boldest, chewiest and most flavorful beers the Belgians offer. This style gives you best of all worlds: rich, dark fruit (plums, raisins, prunes, possibly banana and/or spice, and more), a wonderful, fluffy, creamy head and a dangerous drinkability. One that can often leave you wondering how that 12% beer disappeared so quickly…and where exactly you are! Pair these beauties with a lush, soft, fatty cheese, like Camembert or Brie. These also go very well with certain desserts, like a moist spice cake.

Imperial Stout (or Russian Imperial Stout) – These are the granddaddy of all stouts…and my favorite style of beer. They’re also some of the biggest and baddest beers in the craft brew kingdom. Originally brewed by England, for export to Eastern Europe (Russia), they reportedly gained favor with the Russian aristocracy. At anywhere from 8 to 18%+ alcohol, they certainly command respect. But it’s not just their abv that draws folks to them, it’s their rich, chocolaty and coffee-like, roasted-malt characteristics. If you have customers that swear Guinness is the be-all-end-all of big, dark beers, let them try an Imperial Stout…it’ll blow them away. Many Imperial Stouts are so dark, rich and malty, that if you were to finish your beer and pour in some water to rinse it out, what remains may be mistaken for a big Chardonnay. As I said before, coffee and chocolate usually dominate, but some hops and roasted malt may give them a bittersweet overtone. Imperial Stouts pair perfectly with many chocolates and chocolate desserts, especially flourless chocolate tort, brownies and truffles. Triple yum! These beers will cellar for years.

Barleywine – With a noticeable variation between English and American styles, they all have a few things in common. Heavy and rich, with a good deal of alcohol (usually 10%+). They also usually have an underlying aged-malt/sherry-like characteristic that will develop with some cellar time. American styles are usually notably hoppy, with floral, citrus and/or resiny aromas and flavors. They may also be quite bitter. But that bitterness is usually balanced by loads of malt. The English versions of this style also have copious amounts of thick malt sweetness, but are typically lacking the hops that we throw in, on this side of the pond. And though they do tend to pair well with certain cheeses, such as aged cheddar, they’re really best on their own…as after dinner sippers. Suggest one of these, instead of a brandy.

Winter Warmer / Old Ale – Similar to an English barleywine, these beers typically have more nuttiness and caramel aromas and flavors. They’re also very big and chewy and tend to age extremely well, picking up chocolaty, fruity and Sherry, Port or Madeira-like characteristics as they mature. As with an English-style barleywine, these beers are best served after dinner, by themselves, at about 55-60°. Drink them too cold and you’ll cover up all the wonderful complexity that seems to unfold with every sip, as they warm.

Spiced/Winter Beers – Not my personal favorite, but only because I don’t care for herbs and spices added to my beers. But many folks couldn’t let a winter pass, without stocking up on these. We’ve all heard of Anchor’s Steam beer. But Anchor also makes the single brew, seminal for this style, called Our Special Ale (OSA). These beers are usually dark and on the malty side, with a noticeable absence of hop presence. They’re also often loaded with spices or botanicals, such as spruce, ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, or others. These are almost the “fruitcake” of beers! Try them with a hearty bread, like Norlander, or with gingerbread cookies.

And don’t forget that it’s cold outside, people…we’ve been waiting through some excruciatingly long, hot, sticky months for this chilly bliss. Take advantage of this cold weather and stock up on some of the best beers this industry provides. When a friend asks for some brandy, Port or Sherry, ask them if they’ve ever had a robust, warming ale of winter. Serve it in a snifter, tell them to have a seat by the fire, and you may just have another craft beer convert. And for heaven’s sake…don’t be afraid of the dark!

“The Beers of Fall,” OR “A Great Time To Beer Alive!”

“Oh, the times, they are a chaaaangin’!” Bob Dylan had it right, but we can apply his sentiment to the wonderful world of craft beer today…on more than one level. The leaves are turning; the hot, arid air and hazy skies are becoming clear, bright and blue and our craft beer selection is following suit.

Gone, soon, will be the lighter, thirst quenchers of Summer. In our glasses, we’ll replace them with brighter, more colorful and robust Fall lagers and ales. And our selection, right now, is greater than at any other time in craft beer’s history.

Call it the Craft Beer Renaissance. Call it a connoisseur “awakening.” Call it whatever you’d like, but certainly take advantage of it.  When choosing craft beer for your table or glass this time of year, consider all your choices and the variety of styles availed to us now, unlike any time before.  And the life of a “Beer Sommelier” has never been more exciting!

We’re now thinking about beer in a whole new way; as the complex, versatile beverage it is.  It’s as perfect a match with braised lamb chops, as it is with Thai Curry or Buffalo chicken wings. And don’t even get me started on the sublime pairings of a Belgian Blonde Ale with artisanal cheese, or a Russian Imperial Stout with bittersweet chocolate!

The beers of Fall (the German lagers such as Oktoberfests, at least), are really brewed months earlier…traditionally in March (Märzen). The word “lager” actually means “to store” in German. And that’s exactly what happens after these beers are brewed…they’re cold-stored for months, so that they can finish fermenting over the Summer. Then, all the yeast falls out and they become clear, crisp and malty…just in time for Fall.

This time of year, we also look forward to the slightly heavier, warming qualities of those beers that are purposely made stronger and richer; the exact qualities we cherish, while sitting by that first fire of the season. Or maybe after burgers, but before roasting marshmallows, at the cool-weathered camping trip you’ve been planning for weeks.

When updating your beer lists and draft selections for Fall, consider these style choices. Some are year-‘round and some should be hitting the shelves soon, but they all whisper “autumn” to my ear and palate:

• Spiced/Pumpkin Beers: What could be more reminiscent of carving that pumpkin, when you were a kid…or taking that first bite of pumpkin pie, with family all huddled around? Amber colored and malty, these beers have hints of spices, like clove, nutmeg and cinnamon. Consider one with your dessert this season.

• Oktoberfest Lagers: The preeminent style for the fall season. You know it’s Fall, when a huge, 1L mug of crisp, clear, copper-hued goodness is placed before you. A true “session” beer, this lightly sweet and effervescent lager is meant to be drunk while sitting with friends, telling stories of the season. Or more likely, blowing off some steam from a tough week! Great with pork chops, roasted turkey, scalloped potatoes, or light sausages.

• Weizenbocks: Rich, dark and fruity, these wheat ales are just strong enough to stand up to those chilly fall evenings. They’re not so strong, though, that you can’t enjoy more than one. Hints of apple, banana and bready yeast make this one a perfect match with many cheeses. Try it with Brie or Camembert…yum!

• Scottish/Scotch Ales: Maltier than most beer styles, Scottish Ales are usually dark and can be quite strong…when brewed as a “Wee Heavy.” But all versions of this beer are just about devoid of hops, as they historically have never grown in Scotland. Some characteristics you can expect from this style are dark fruits, some roast and nuttiness, and possibly a hint of peat and smoke. This style pairs notoriously well with many chocolates. It’s sweet, malty (and occasionally chocolaty) backbone, and absence of hops, are perfectly suited to the creamy, sweetness of many chocolates. Pass on the fruit-flavored chocolates, though, as they may throw off the balance between these two.

We’re extremely fortunate. Many intricate styles, like these, were once only available from their countries of origin, or if you happened to befriend a home-brewer. Because of this “craft beer revolution,” we’re availed to all these wonderful, obscure and complex beers, locally. If your distributor doesn’t carry a beer, brewery or line of beers that you’d like to offer, just ask. They’ll not only respect your expanding knowledge of the craft, but the fact that they won’t have to read your mind, in order to bring you the best they have to offer. Viva la Revolution!!

###